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The Attic on Broadway’s Chef Cameron Slaugh’s supper club—where diners are invited into the house’s private dining room—is truly one of the city’s most exhilarating food experiences and the city’s best tasting menu. And the starter dish, a sea urchin “cappuccino,” was one of the best dishes I’ve had. Period.

It was served in a small, heated, deep stone bowl filled with what only could be described the permeating ooze of the ocean. An uni-layered foam, topped with more sea urchin, an oyster, and a dollop of caviar. It was umami bomb in the best way possible, with bits of salt, acid, and ramsons—garlicky white flowers often called wild or bear’s garlic—cutting through the fat and creaminess of the uni and oyster. And for a moment, there was little to focus on other than the dish, the people surrounding me, and the room.

And when the server closed the door, an immediate escape of the restaurant’s cacophony of diners, servers, and chatter. It was our private little universe—and I was diving fork first into the first dish of five, an oceanic universe of a first course created by The Attic on Broadway’s Chef Cameron Slaugh.

It was a nearly perfect dish in a nearly perfect room—my fingers only avoiding typing “entirely perfect” because of that nagging thing inside me that no such thing exists. But if we were to push toward it, this would be it.

Photos by Sterling Reed / Brian Addison

Written by Brian Addison

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